Poured concrete – one type of foundation popular in Muskoka. Waterproofing is required. Photograph: Courtesy of Brian Hoar Inc.

We have reached the mid-way mark in our 9-part series! Back in February, when this series was first introduced, I wrote we were about to embark on the fascinating and eye-opening journey of building a custom cottage.
As co-writer with Brian Hoar, my eyes have, without a doubt, grown very wide! In the beginning, I saw builders as people who took a hammer to work and grabbed nails on the way! I now hold, not only the utmost respect for this profession but also, sincere appreciation of the necessary skill, experience and professionalism required of everyone involved. To the construction trade of Muskoka – My hat is off to you!
In part five, we tackle basements and foundations. Enjoy!

Prove you have water
Most important – prove you have water before you build!
“Three to four per cent of wells won’t work. There will never be any water,” states Lloyd Trodden, of Bettray Well Drilling.
“Before you build and invest more money, prove there is water on your lot,” he continues. “Drill and do it as early as possible, as soon as there is road access for a drilling rig. If there is no water and you are not on a lake, or surface water area, where you can get water, you have a lot on which you cannot build.”
The average well in Muskoka is 300 feet deep as opposed to other areas such as Haliburton where the average hovers around 40 feet. In the Precambrian Shield, from Muskoka to Kenora, random fractures in the rock make finding water unpredictable.
“I just drilled a well on Morrison Lake,” explains Trodden, “and we found water at 30 feet but a stone’s throw away, there was a 500-foot dry hole.” It is that random.
A few years ago, on a property on Lake Muskoka, Trodden drilled but there was no water. The owner, determined to find water, built a road to another area chosen by Trodden. He drilled and, this time, found water at 40 feet, right on the same lot.
The rock is like a sponge with small openings through which the rain and melting snow flow. Finding a crack in the bedrock, the water fills any opening connected to it. 
“We are looking for one, or more, of these openings,” explains Trodden.
Once you have successfully established a water source, take a deep sigh of relief and proceed to the next step! 

Begin with a good foundation
A good foundation is essential. So many elements of the building will be affected by it. There can be no shortcuts. It sets the standard for almost everything that follows. Errors at the bottom will multiply right up to the roof.
Basements and crawl spaces should be dry and sound. There is no excuse for them not to be, no matter what site conditions exist.
Good prior planning, experience and careful execution at every stage are key. Elevations, final grading and storm water management will have already been considered when siting the building and prior to excavation.
The excavation often reveals water seeping from cracks in the rock, small springs and pooling water – unable to escape unless provisions are made to take care of it.
Drain tiles installed around and through the footings must allow passage for the water to migrate by gravity away from the building. Blasting must sometimes be employed to make this happen. Sump pumps are utilized only as the very last resort. They are mechanical. They can break down and don’t work without hydro.
Drain tile and crushed stone are very important. If in doubt, use more of both rather than less. It’s a minor investment and offers great peace of mind.
It’s a common misconception that footings poured on clean bedrock will keep water out. They will not. If the footing is in the path of water, provide a passage through and let drain tile carry the water under the floor and out the other side.

John Weinstein, of Inclined Elevations, builds and designs private residential inclined elevators to move people and materials between two levels of property, separated vertically. For example, between the cottage and the dock, or, the cottage and the parking lot. Ideal for the elderly, those with mobility issues and builders transporting construction supplies. Photograph: Courtesy of Inclined Elevations

50 tons of concrete in the wrong place?
Custom homes tend to have complicated footprints. It is difficult and time-consuming to accurately lay them out on sloping excavations.
As mentioned in part four of this series, good builders will employ a surveyor with state-of-the-art equipment to come in at this stage to pin every corner of the footing. After the footings are poured, the surveyor will return to pin the corners of the foundation walls. This assures total accuracy, saves everyone time and has the added benefit of the footprint being plotted on the property survey, confirming required setbacks, for future reference.
This is insurance against pouring 50 tons of concrete in the wrong place! Plus, it provides a permanent legal record of the building’s location.

Building inspection #1
The first of many building inspections will take place before pouring concrete for the footings. This is to ensure correct width and depth; that pouring will take place on undisturbed soil, or bedrock and that appropriate pinning and reinforcing steel is in place and, if required, drainage planned, etc.

Options for basement walls
Once the footings are poured there are options to consider. The three most common basement walls found in Muskoka are cement block, poured concrete and insulated concrete forms (ICF).
Each offers advantages and disadvantages. Each will do a fine job as long as skilled and experienced people perform the work.
Site conditions and logistics may determine the best choice. Cost may be a factor. Material availability and end use of the basement may also influence decisions.
Cement block foundations are the lowest cost of the three options. Masonry block walls stay dry, absorb sound and, used naturally without insulation, are warmer than poured concrete. Add insulation for an energy-efficient wall.

States Ivan Rand, of Simcoe Block: “We can have concrete block to the site within two days. The issue is skilled masonry labour – finding qualified masons to do the work.
“Specialty architectural blocks, available in several colours and different face textures are often used for walk-outs instead of plain, parged concrete block,” adds Rand. 
Scott Hiebert of Muskoka Concrete Forming adds, “We pour the footings which provide the main base for the foundation and then we pour the concrete walls.
“Lower in cost than ICF, it’s a solid strong wall, approximately 60 per cent stronger than cement block, and more water resistant with less water leakage.

“For walk out levels,” Hiebert continues, “the footings and frost walls must be poured a minimum of four feet below finished grade for adequate frost protection. In addition, we install four inch diameter weeping tile covered with crushed stone all around the home, and, water and damp proof all below-grade walls.”    
Larry French, of Bert French and Son Ltd., the 2005 R-2000 Builder of the Year, states, “For the most part, we use poured concrete foundations.”
R-2000 certified homes offer high energy-efficiency incorporating tight construction and high insulation values. R-2000 sales are up as more consumers become energy conscious and try to counter rising fuel costs.

Patrick Chouinard, of Chouinard Homes, also works with eight inch poured concrete walls. He recommends an R23 blown in batt (BIB System) insulation in conjunction with exterior basement walls.
States Ken Cobb of Precision Homes: “While we receive some requests for poured concrete, the majority of our foundations are ICF.
“Clients are more and more going to cottage shows and doing their research. They’re seeing the insulating value of ICF.
“ICF has a six inch concrete wall with two inches of styrofoam on the inside and two inches of styrofoam on the outside which ultimately gives superior insulating values. ICF, which carries a higher initial cost, is literally a styrofoam sandwich with concrete on the inside.”

Chris Ember and Brian Higgins of Cottage Country Construction install, almost exclusively, ICF. “Our niche is the customer who wants insulated concrete form and an energy efficient home,” says Higgins.
ICF claims an insulation value of R40, a 100 per cent vapour barrier and an exceptionally strong, quiet wall.
Explains Ember: “Once ICF is installed, it’s insulated and ready for dry wall. You don’t have to stud and add further insulation, so you’ve saved a step.”
Flexibility in the thickness of the wall allows for deeper basements and higher levels of back fill. “ICF can handle eight or 10 feet of soil against it,” says Ember.
As a supplier of ICF, Rick Hallam, Tobin Enterprises, offers training and follow-up with new installers as well as keeping inventory on hand to ensure prompt delivery to the site.

“With ICF,” Hallam begins, “You’re getting a premium wall without a premium price. ICF is comparatively less expensive than in the past. It’s less labour intensive. You’re basically buying materials as opposed to buying labour.” 
Although perceived as the new kid on block, ICF has been around for 35 to 40 years. In the past, the energy savings function was not perceived as relevant. Recently, of course, as the price of fuel has gone up, people are looking for ways to reduce their heating bills.
Dave Nodwell, of D&D Contracting, also prefers ICF foundations. “Poured concrete would be my next choice,” he adds. “In the end, it’s the customer’s decision. Economically, ICF, with its energy savings, works.”
Grant Watkinson of Shorline Construction, swears by ICF foundations. “It’s a great product. I’m able to have my inventory delivered quickly. I eliminate one sub trade and we get things done.”

Insulated Concrete Forms provide an energy efficient foundation. Photograph: Courtesy of Cottage Country Construction

Pricing
“When comparing prices of the three wall options – cement block, poured concrete or ICF – it’s important to compare apples to apples,” says Higgins. “Ensure all comparative costs such as insulation, waterproofing and parging, are included.”

Waterproofing
Whatever the type of wall construction, waterproofing is critical. Modern sprayed-on coatings or applied waterproof membranes cost more but they’re worth it. Properly applied, they make water penetration a thing of the past. 
High ceilings
Ten-foot high ceilings in basement walkouts pose special problems when the rear walls are backfilled almost 10 feet high. Walls must be designed thicker and reinforced with steel, with pilasters and knee walls introduced to take the extra loads. Sub-floors should be installed to give these high walls additional lateral strength before backfilling.
All of this requires professional planning. The architects and engineers have done the calculations. There’s no place to cut corners here.
At the end of the day, experience, skill and extra care will determine quality and accuracy. Pay attention to often overlooked details such as floor drains and placement of sleeves in the walls for heat recovery ventilators etc.

Building inspection #2
A further building inspection is required to verify proper drain tile and crushed stone installation plus waterproofing of walls before any back filling can commence.

Concrete floor
The basement, or lower level, poured concrete floor deserves discussion. Concrete floors below grade are always cold no matter what floor coverings are used. Consider in-floor heating for all living spaces at these levels.
“Radiant in-floor heating is a great way to heat your home,” states Chip Loughhead, of Gravenhurst Plumbing and Heating.
“It gives you an even room temperature and it’s an efficient way to heat your home. You can save up to 20 -30 per cent of your energy bill. (We will discuss this in more detail in part eight of this series) 
To proceed with in-floor heating, prior planning and proper preparation will be required including a bed of compacted crushed stone, floor insulation and a vapour barrier. 
Finally, you must select and lay the radiant electric, or hot water systems, before the concrete floor is poured. The end result is so comfortable and highly recommended for all custom homes. With in-floor heating, many more options can be considered for floor coverings including ceramic tile and slate – no more cold feet on these types of surfaces.
At this point, you have water, a foundation and a warm basement floor – the best foundation for any home. Life is good. In the August issue we’ll look at the style of home you are building – will it be timber frame, stick frame or a log home? Join us as we discuss these options and more.

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